54Isea&iISPRING-SUMMER 2010Linking one lovely village to another, the famous Sentiero Azzurro path affords spectacular vistas.Leading you through shady olive groves, along the cliff-tops and past pebbly beaches, the completetrail can take several hours for those wanting to take it at speed, or a day's leisurely hike at a slowerpace. The first 20-minute stretch is the most spectacular, with sections of the path from Riomaggioreto Manarola tunnelling beneath overhanging rocks and emerging at various vertiginous spots linedwith semi-tropical aloe. The path then winds through olive groves and vines between Corniglia andVernazza. It is the steepest stretch, but also the prettiest. Considered by many to be the loveliest of the five villages, Vernazza dates to Roman times. Ochre-coloured houses are built into a rocky headland crowned by an 11th-century castle, and cobblestonestreets lead to the natural harbour edged by the village, castle and terraced vineyards.Finish in Monterosso al Mare - the perfect place for a dip in the sea and spaghetti al mare atRistorante Ciak. As the land-based tourists rush to catch the last trains out, stay for the sunsetaccompanied only by the locals, and savour a magical taste of what this deserted, idyllic village wouldhave been like centuries ago.nFor more information on chartering in the Mediterranean, please contact your nearest CNI charter broker. See page 6 forcontact details. Ochre-coloured houses are carved into a rocky headlandcrowned by an 11th century castle in Vernazza Above:the imposing Santa Margheritad'Antiochia parish church, with its octagonal belfry, overlooks Vernazza Opposite page, top:olive groves and vines line the path between Corniglia and VernazzaRight:the Hotel Splendido boasts spectacular views over Portofino Photography: Fototeca ENIT / Agenzia Regionale in Liguria
SPRING-SUMMER 2010I sea&iI55aboardashoreYOUR PERSONAL GUIDESCaptain Colin Boyle aboard Cloud 9"World-class gastronomy and the unrivalledbackdrop of the French and Italian Mediterraneanregion remains, for me, the attractive combinationthat keeps the Riviera number one in the charterarmoury. Portofino is a delight with its bakeriesselling simple focaccia straight from wood-firedovens, and one of my favourite restaurants - therustic La Taverna del Marinaio, with its signaturedish Penne Taverna. Many fond memories haveremained with me from my first bite 15 years ago.Further around on the promontory, a lunchtime stopat the tiny fishing village of Camogli is great for anyguests that like to explore off the beaten track. Getdropped off by tender for a lovely alfresco lunch, orwalk around the coast to San Fruttuoso, with itscrystal-clear deep-blue bays and waterside abbeydating from the 12th century."Captain Jonathan Kielty aboard Anjilis "With so much attention focused on key areas of theFrench Riviera, some of the best experiences areoften overlooked. I always take guests to theanchorage at St Jean Cap Ferrat. From here they candine at the Michelin-starred Château Eza in thevillage of Eze, peering down at their yacht. Alsoeasily accessible from the small harbour at St Jeanis the Villa Ephrussi, a spectacular palazzo with ninegardens. Given the chance in Monaco, I turn leftwhere others turn right and head to the old streetsof Monaco Ville as a more serene and historicalternative to the crowds of Monte Carlo. On theItalian Riviera, I love the anchorage at Portovenerefor its protected location, its quaint colourfulbuildings and its proximity to the Cinque Terre."