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62Isea&iIWINTER 2011LA CHÈVRE D'ORIf you have a head for heights, there are few views to comparewith that of standing on the cliff top of the medieval village ofEze. Casting your gaze in one direction, the coastline weaves allthe way to Monaco; turn your focus 180 degrees and you scopeblue sea and sandy shorelines all the way to Nice. Yet for mostwho come to this enchanting lofty village, this dazzlingpanoramic Mediterranean seascape is the secondary attraction;those with an eye for seriously impressive sights sit indoors andstare due south. The dishes you can gaze down on atop a table at La Chèvred'Or are, as the French might growl, magnifique!Forget blueskies, golden sun and white beaches, here you can feast youreyes on the electric zest of a ginger orange sorbet, theplumppink flesh of a Bresse pigeon breast, the shimmeringpearlyperfection of Gillardeau oysters, and the golden-tan glow of aglass of Chateau d'Yquem 1944 from the restaurant's 15,000bottle cellar. Take the experience a step further and a masterpieceof flavours and textures crackle, smack and miraculously meltupon the tongue.The kitchen has been in business since 1953, gaining its firstMichelin star in 1972 with Elie Mazot and its second in 2000 withJean Marc Delacourt. Since July this year, the reins have passedto Fabrice Vulin, a French chef who, among other notableachievements, earned two Michelin stars in just 14 months ashead chef of Parc des Eaux-Vives in Geneva, Switzerland. Havingreturned to France to work with the local ingredients he so loves,rumour has it he has his eye on more Michelin stars for La Chèvre d'Or.The new menu features treats the likes of rock red mulletprepared with caramelised aubergine, quince, porcinimushrooms and black pudding from the Basque country; andRossini style fillet of beef with foie gras and mature parmesanmacaroni gratin. If you haven't yet paid a visit, now is the timeto schedule a dinner for your 2011 Côte d'Azur charter.MICHELINSTARS: **SEATS: 45, or 65 for a banquetRESERVATIONS: between July and September, book at least twoweeks in advance, or ideally a month for parties of five-plusCONTACT: www.chevredor.comThis page, below right:culinary inspiration at La Chèvre D'OrBelow: view of theMediterranean from La Chèvre D'OrOpposite page: therestaurant at ChâteauSaint-Martin & Spa, and views of the estate

WINTER 2011I sea&iI63couturecuisineLE SAINT-MARTIN It inspired Chagall, Braque, Miró and Matisse, and today theregion in which the Château Saint-Martin & Spa estateluxuriates continues to draw connoisseurs of the finer thingsin life. In the very heart of the Côte d'Azur, balanced betweenthe sea and the mountains, and just five minutes from thehistorical centre of Vence, Château Saint-Martin & Spa servesup a generous taste of the good life, and nowhere more so thanat its very core at Le Saint-Martin restaurant. Proud owner of two Michelin stars, the restaurant is helmedby Yannick Franques - protégé of Alain Ducasse, ChristianConstant and Eric Frechon. The food is suitably adventurous,coquettishly presented, and a feast of colours and flavours. Fora starter you may find yourself dipping into Franques''mysteryof the egg' - beaten and served with briochewrapped in crusty breadcrumbs and highlighted with blacktruffle. To follow, you might treat yourself to pigeon â la royalewith truffled celery root and spaghetti sauce thickened withspiced dark chocolate. Or perhaps you'll savour the red mulletin a white-bread crust with cucumber, fennel and spring onions,served with traditional saffron rouille. Franques describes hisstyle as traditional French cuisine that revisits the classics, andthe ambience of the restaurant reflects this philosophy. Décoris simple and tasteful to create a comfortable, cosy atmosphere,leaving the exterior view over the Mediterranean to steal thelimelight - at least, that is, until the food arrives.nMICHELINSTARS: **SEATS: 35RESERVATIONS: at least one week in advanceCONTACT: