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ST- JOHNS V. C. Bird Airport Jabberwock Beach Dickenson Bay Fort James Darkwood Beach Carlisle Bay Rain Forest Cedar Valley 38Isea& iIWINTER 2010 F ort James is the only site with a full complement of cannons. In their day, the ten cannons could fire a 24lb ball over 2.4 kilometres ( one and a half miles). It was the custom that every vessel that passed the fort should pay 18 shillings to the fort's captain. If a ship did not comply a shot was fired across its bow. T he focal point of commerce and industry, St Johns is made up of cobblestone streets and wooden houses with a sprinkling of shops. W ith a beach for every day of the year, you are spoilt for choice on Antigua, but the locals would hint that the best of them include Dickenson Bay ( Coconut Grove Restaurant and Bar serves fabulous pina coladas), Carlisle Bay, Darkwood Beach, Half Moon Bay, Pigeon Beach and Jabberwock Beach ( ideal for wind and kite surfing). A ntigua may not be on a par with some of the other Caribbean islands when it comes to golf, but the 18- hole, par- 70 Cedar Valley Golf Club is a good club and has panoramic views of Antigua's northern coast. The Jolly Harbour Golf Course is a par- 71, 18- hole course that also runs through tropical landscapes. C arlisle Bay has more than a touch of island luxury. It has nine tennis courts, a Blue Spa and tempting restaurants - try East for Japanese, Thai, Indian and Vietnamese; and Indigo On The Beach if you fancy having a more relaxed evening. T ake a nail- biting, zip- wire ride on the Rainforest Canopy Tour, which whisks you through the treetops over a gorge. Not for the fainthearted. With 365 sugar- white beaches, Antigua has secured itself a pole position on the Caribbean cruising map. sea& iseeks out the best of the highlights with an at- a- glance guide to all that's hot on the island ByMiriam Cain

Pigeon Beach English Harbour Shirley Heights Nelson Dockyard Half Moon Bay Betty's Hope WINTER 2010I sea& iI39 A ntigua has transformed itself from a poverty- stricken island of sugar plantations to a bustling holiday hub, but the rolling landscapes are still dotted with memories of its past - the stone towers that were once sugar mills. Catch a glimpse of that era in its heyday at Betty's Hope. This site was the first sugar plantation on the island, and today you can visit the ruins and the original windmills. T here is plenty of big- game fishing off shore, where wahoo, tuna and marlin abound. M any of the beaches have calm waters that make them great for snorkelling and the reefs that fringe Antigua are home to brilliantly coloured fish. T he restored Georgian naval dockyard is at the centre of the Nelson's Dockyard National Park, which has become the world's most visible symbol of England's powerful navy in the West Indies. Nelson commandedthe British navy in the Leeward Islands from 1784 to 1787 and made his headquarters at English Harbour, which became home to the British fleet. The colonial naval buildings remain as they were then. Today, nature trails with coastal views abound in Nelson's Dockyard National Park. For the best panoramic views, take the walk from English Harbour to Shirley Heights, beginning at Galleon Beach. A bracadabra's in English Harbour is always jumping. Serving fresh seafood early on, the night becomes a dance party as live jazz, reggae and often car-nival costumes take over. The nearby Admiral's Inn is a quieter affair, with great daiquiris and local steel bands at the weekend. The Life Bar is also a favourite haunt of yachting crowd, whilst the pub Mainbrace, at the Copper and Lumber Store, serves fish and chips and, on some evenings, they have a jazz band. S hirley Heights jump- up is the place to be on Sunday afternoons. The session begins with a barbecue at 4pm and continues with reggae, steel- pans and lots of dancing. Arrive early for sundowners and enjoy the sunset over English Harbour. islandlife ISLAND SNAPSHOT antigua