UKCARP MAGAZINE 18 OCTOBER 4TH 2011other words, the clutch is set so tight that there is no chance of a fish taking any line. Single banksticks help to keep set-ups rock solid, as buzzer bars naturally twist round when a fish is trying its hardest to pull the rod off the rests. Goalpost buzzer bars do the job even better, but they can be a pig to get into hard, gravelly ground. The rear rest should hold the rod butt firmly as well, and numerous excellent gripper-style stiff rubber backrests will do the job admirably.If you have the butt eye on the inside of the buzzer the fish will not be able to able to be pull the whole rod forward, which is important as this stops it making it into submerged snags. The only thing you need to ensure is that the legs of the butt ring do not interfere with the free rotation of your buzzer wheels if you use roller-type buzzers.If you are fishing to a snag along your own margin then the addition of a long bankstick in front of the buzzer will not only help stop the rod pulling sideways, but also reduce the amount of line the fish can take by simply bending the rod round. The bankstick reduces the arc of the rod and the potential sideways movement of the rod-tip, and stops pthe tip from potentially folding into any reeds or plants growing to the side.I guess that's the basics on the bank covered. Perhaps a word on bite indication would be appropriate too. The last thing you can do is hide the line away by fishing super-slack, as this would simply give the fish the leeway it needs to swim straight into the snags. Not good! Conversely, a tight line with a heavy bobbin may offer good bite indication but the fish may be put on edge by the presence of that tight line to the lead.As with most things in fishing there is normally a balance to be struck, and I find this is to use a small lightweight Bug bobbin-style indicator fished on a short drop (so that the bobbin can lift easily, giving you a few bleeps on the alarm). This offers good indication and allows my line in the vicinity of the hookbait to settle flush with the lakebed.I don't think being too pedantic about breaking strains and line types is helpful, but I will suggest that whatever line you choose, you do not drop below a 0.35mm (copolymer) line while snag fishing. Realistically, it would be safer to use a line between 0.38mm and 0.40mm.Any 0.35mm line worth its salt should break at 17lb-18Ib on the knot, and a 0.38mm line should break at just over 20Ib. This may seem excessive, but the line is not only put under tremendous pressure but the extra diameter is the best way to safeguard against it being cut off by underwater objects. Diameter is the only way to realistically improve your chances of avoiding the line cutting, short of using specialist snag leaders (that could potentially be dangerous Lock up clutches tight...use line of a suitable diameter to resist abrasion...be sure your hooklengths are tough...and, most importantly, choose hooks that are up to the job."It's vital that your rigs are 'safe' when snag fi shing and that the hooklink can separate from the leader"JUNGLE SWIMSSnags and secluded swims appeal to fish.
UKCARP MAGAZINE 29 JANUARY 3RD 2012if not set up correctly). If your venue allows it, including a strong leadcore leader can help reduce cut-offs in the last few feet of tackle. If these aren't allowed, then a length of sinking rig tubing helps protect the line as well.I like the leadcore, simply because the small bobbins allow it to settle down with a semi-tight line, but a similar result could be achieved by moulding a couple of blobs of Critical Mass tungsten putty up the line.It's vitally important that your rigs are 'safe' when snag fishing - so I recommend one of our Gardner Covert Multi-clip lead clips with leadcore. These can be set so that the hooklink can separate from the leader should the mainline break. Conventional lead clips do not allow this, and I reckon they are dreadfully dangerous with any type of leader because of this.If you are using a rig that incorporates a very strong hook in your normal fishing then it might be adequate for snag fishing too. The easiest way to see if it is man enough for the job is to hook a rig into a suitable ring, pull, and feel how much pressure it takes for the hook to distort. Check out your hook's strength before you start fishing as it's quite easy to think that a pattern you have used in normal carp angling without any problems will cope. It often won't.If there is a weakness in your tackle the fish will find it, but by being fastidious in your preparation you can at least be certain that the tackle you are using is strong enough to land anything you are likely to hook.After that it's a case of staying alert, NEVER leaving your rods unattended, and reacting as quickly as possible to bites. Once you hook a carp, simply standing your ground may not be enough to turn a fish pulling hard for snags, and you may need to start walking back while applying maximum pressure to your tackle in order that the fish doesn't reach the snags after taking the stretch out of your line.The final important piece in the snag fishing jigsaw is where to put your hookbait. We have a responsibility not to fish in a way that means the chances of landing the fish we hook are slim. To put it bluntly - if you are fishing a spot and lose a couple of carp you should stop fishing there as it's simply not fair on the fish. We have a responsibility to cause our quarry as little stress and damage as possible.Snag fishing is a hair-raising way to catch carp, and done correctly it can be immensely enjoyable. Just be ready for some titanic tussles... A bankstick will stop fish using the flex of the rod to gain snags. 'Gripper' butt rests hold rod firmly. Rod straps stop it being pulled forward. TOP TIPS TO BEAT SNAGSA decent double that fell to my snag fishing tactics.Use strong, sticky sharp hooks.Leads must always ditch on the take.